Some thoughts on stockings- care and wear.

It should be apparent that the Sophisticate's Diary is an advocate of the wearing of stockings. We have already touched upon the anatomy of a stocking, now we shall help you extend the life of your stockings through proper care and selection.

Selection or what to look for in a stocking

The sheerness of a stocking is determined by denier and gauge, although gauge is no longer noted on modern stockings. The denier of a yarn (rayon, nylon or silk) is determined by weighing a 450 metre hank of yarn. One denier means that 450 metres of yarn weighs 0.05 grams. Ten denier weighs 0.5 grams per 450 metres, 20 denier weighs one gram and so on and so forth. The higher the denier the coarser the yarn, therefore a stocking made from a 15 denier yarn will be sheerer than one made from a 50 denier yarn.

However, with vintage stockings you will often see the denier noted alongside the gauge. The gauge, or needle count on seamless stockings, relates to the number of needles on the knitting machine which creates the stocking. As explained in Stockings (1946) by A.W. Eley

'Sheerness of a stocking can be determined by the size (or count) of yarn used in relation to the gauge of the machine. Thus, a 45 Gauge stocking might look more sheer than a 51 Gauge made from the same count of yarn, as on the lower gauge machine the fabric becomes more loosely knitted, resulting in a more sheer effect.'

According to A.W Eley's book stockings should be chosen according to purpose as follows:

10/15 denier – Preferably for evening wear only

20 denier – For evening wear, Dance, Dinner, Theatre

30 Denier – For afternoon wear, Tea-time, Semi-dress wear

40/50 denier – For informal wear, business, home

60/75 denier – General purpose

100/150 denier – Semi-service weight

Thus, 10/15 denier stockings worn for everyday wear will not last as long as the 40/50 denier stocking. However, A.W. Eley notes that women 'are frankly out for additional luxuriousness, and will pay a high price to get it, being satisfied to replace hosiery oftener than should be required.'

It would seem that I am a typical customer from 1946 as it is very unusual for me to wear anything over 20 denier, even in winter.

Care

There is no reason why, given the proper care, a 10 or 15 denier stocking should not last as long as a 30 denier stocking.

I am sure I do not have to state that stockings are best washed by hand, not by machine. Machine washing, even if using a hosiery bag, will decrease the life of the stocking. The higher temperatures will impair the strength of the stocking leading to ladders. From time to time I am tempted by the convenience of machine washing for my RHTs (my FFs are always washed by hand) and experience immediate laddering when putting them on. So, although you may save a little time by machine washing, you do not save expense.

A.W. Eley outlines the following method to hand washing:

• Toss mild soap flakes into a little hot water first, and when thoroughly dissolved, add cold water to make a luke-warm solution, then whisk into bubbly suds (hot water, strong soap solutions and soaking, impair the strength of the stocking and cause streaking and fading of colour).

• Keep dipping the hose instead of swirling in circles – stubborn soiled or rain spots should be treated by sending the suds through the fabric by a cupped motion of the hand. After three rinsings in luke-warm water (same temperature as the washing water) to remove all soap, the stockings should be wrapped in a towel, and the water gently pressed out (no twisting or wringing) and then be unwrapped at once.

• Hang by the toe to dry at room temperature – never put on a radiator, or in strong sunlight.

• Do not iron stockings – this raises a gloss.

• Dry thoroughly.

1. After washing, do not wear the following day. Stockings- especially Rayon stockings – are weakest when wet, and their full tensile strength is not regained until they are completely dry, which is 48 hours after washing. Rayon stockings appear to be dry before they are actually dry – in this they are very deceptive. Nylon dries faster than any fibre.
   If possible, allow three days to elapse between completion of drying and the wearing of the hose.
   During the second day after rayon stockings are washed, if they are given two three-minute exposures to ultra-violet rays from say, an ultra-violet ray lamp, being again subjected on the third day to a further fifteen-second exposure, the fibre regains its former strength, and the quality is equal to that of a brand new pair.

2. Stockings washed and dried this way will give maximum service, and their beauty of appearance is prolonged, thus proving them an investment instead of- as is so often the case- a speculation!

3. When crepe-twist stockings are laundered, it will be noticed that they apparently so out of shape, seeming to go in a spiral, and throwing the seam out of line. This is only a temporary phase, however, and the hose will revert to proper seam alignment as they dry. There is, therefore, no need for dismay over the washing process – this type of hose is specially recommended for hard wear, and it lives up to its reputation.

4. Several pairs of one colour is a good buy, so that there is always a 'reserve' to draw upon in the event of a last minute accident or wear.

5. Contrary to popular belief, the storing of stockings made from any fibre has no effect of the wearing qualities providing they are kept in a dark and dry place. Natural silk hosiery is very sensitive to light, and to the presence of moisture in the air, and is easily weakened by ultra-violet or visible sunlight.

6. To put on hosiery. Be seated. Roll down the entire length of the stocking with both hands (be sure stocking does not catch on rough fingers or sharp jewellery), slip foot through the roll and right down into the tow. Do not jerk the stocking over the heel- adjust the heel, and slowly roll the stocking up the leg. Check seam straightness before attaching suspender, and while still seated, with knees flexed, fasten the suspender into the welt, taking into account the length of the stocking, and adjusting accordingly. Never suspender below the welt, this being a specially reinforced suspender top intended for this definite purpose, and the suspender should be adjusted so that is does not stretch the welt out of line and prejudice leg freedom. The putting on of hose this way provides for that little extra 'give' and helps to minimise the strain at the knee on delicate fabric, which strain – when bending or stooping- makes itself evident to the wearer. Rings and bracelets, of course, are an ever-present menace to stockings, and as all stockings will snag when brought into contact with rough surfaces or sharp objects, due care should be exercised in this direction.
   
   

With this information you should now be confident to buy any stocking, even those 'evening' sheer stockings, knowing that with good care there is no reason why they should not last as long as the more serviceable, higher denier stocking.

A small note about fabric

When A.W. Eley wrote his book stockings were generally available in silk, cotton, rayon or nylon (give or take a ration stamp or two). Nowadays, the majority of stockings are made from nylon, with most brands on the High Street containing Lycra. I do not believe that the introduction of Lycra has made any improvement to stockings, in my experience stockings with Lycra never last more than one wear, excepting nets. The Sophisticate's Diary would always recommend 100% nylon stockings as they not only wear well but they enhance the leg, giving it a more beautiful appearance.

As to rayon stockings, once only found in charity shops when serendipity was in our favour, they are now available from What Katie Did as part of their CC09 range of stockings.