The Sophisticate's Diary: April 2008

As spotless examples of debonnaire refinement you will, of course, already own a straight razor- or 'cut-throat' razor as they are sometimes referred to by people who don't own one. Aside from adding a dash of dangerous chic to your bathroom furnishings, and allowing one to experience the slow but satisfying process of proper shaving, a straight razor will also enable, if not positively encourage, one to slice pleasing morsels of flesh from the hideous visages of offensive and anti-social elements one may encounter during day-to-day life. Being immaculately dressed, we will rarely attract the unwanted attentions of the Forces of Darkness with their ever-increasing powers of stop and search, and are therfore free to carry the weapons of gentlefolk unmolested (see also Defence Against Rain and Foe).
The following advice will instruct you on the proper care and maintenance of your straight razor.

Honing and Stropping are a knack as well as a science. There are therefore different theories about each of these processes.. The beginner should be guided by established techniques. The student should use a dummy razor to practice honing and stropping. He may use his good hone, but he should use either an old strop or a canvas.

Honing

Honing is the process of sharpening a razor on a hone.

Seventeen Pointers on Honing

Draw the blade diagonally across the hone, from the heel to the point, and towards the cutting edge.
The honing strokes should be of equal length to assure regularity in the new teeth formation.
Keep the blade flat on the hone in all strokes.
Apply equal pressure in all strokes.
The approximate pressure on the hone should be about one-half the weight of the blade.
The time required for sharpening depends upon the condition of the edge, the newness of the razor, the kind of hone, the rate and length of the strokes. The required number of strokes run from five to ten unless it is a case of reconditioning the razor. A new razor requires fewer strokes than an old one. Discretion will have to be employed when using a fast or slow cutting hone. One will learn by a kind of “mysterious draw” when the razor is taking an edge; he will sense a suction effect. This effect acts as a signal to slow down and stop.
The strokes should be about three-waters the length of the hone.
Begin the strokes at the farther end of the hone, making sure to have the heel at the hone.
Stop on each stroke with about one-half the blade left on the hone to allow for accurate turning of the razor in preparation for the next stroke. At the end of a stroke, turn the razor over and at the same time slide it up to a position which corresponds to the original position on the other end of the hone.
Turn the razor over at the end of each stroke with the fingers only. Without moving the wrist. Using the fingers only makes for quickness and gracefulness.
For holding and turning the razor while honing note these minor points:
1. Hold the razor firmly, but not tightly.
2. Set the handle almost in line with the blade.
3. For the take off, lay the razor flat near the end of the hone, place the ball of finger one on the shank just behind the shoulder, the ball of thumb directly in front of the pivot, the ball of the second finger directly behind the pivot, and bend the other two fingers around the handle to hold it steady and to aid in turning.
4. Turn the razor at the end of the first stroke, simply roll the razor over to the right, keep the back in contact with hone by use of all the fingers including the thumb. By turning the razor in this way, it will be discovered that the razor is rolling over in the fingers instead of the fingers rolling over it. In position for the next stroke, the first finger will overlap the front of shank somewhat, the thumb will be almost at the back of the pivot, the first joint of the second finger will brace the front pivot section and the other two fingers will have closed in just a little more.
5. On returning to the original end of the hone, if more honing is to be done, turn the razor back to the “take-off”position.
6. Always end the stroke at the same end of the hone that the first stroke began.
7. Strokes should never be too fast and jerky. Make them long, smooth, even, rhythmical and graceful.
A razor should not be honed unless it is dull. A properly honed razor is good for several shaves. It should not be necessary to hone after each shave. The edge is preserved by the manner in which it is used.
The most common error in honing is to over-hone.
Removal of over honed effects:
1. Hone with the back of the blade leading instead of the cutting edge. In other words, hone with a stropping stroke.
2. Pull the cutting edge over a bar of soap.
3. Drag the cutting edge over a very soft piece of pine.
Testing the edge of a freshly honed razor:

A freshly honed razor is best tested by drawing it over a moistened thumbnail. The real test however is in the actual shaving. One can develop the knack of knowing when the honed edge is right. He knows the disposition of his razor and knows about how many honing strokes to make. It is a misconception that the ability of a razor to split a single hair proves that it has a perfect cutting edge. Of course a dull razor will not split a hair but a razor that has a rough, over-honed edge if manipulated correctly will split a hair, yet its edge would be too rough and wire like for a smooth shave and it would produce a burning effect on the face. The hair-splitting ability of a razor indicates one or two conditions- one, that it has a rough, wire-like sharp edge, and the other is that it has a proper cutting edge.
Sensations indicative of the razor's edge:
1. A slight dragging but somewhat smooth sensation indicates a keen, perfect edge. (Ready fro stropping).
2. An exceedingly smooth sliding sensation indicates dullness and bluntness. (Needs more honing).
3. A decided digging in, grating sensation indicates a rough, coarse over-honed edge.
4. An unevenness of sensation indicates faulty honing or a defect in the razor through dropping, over-use, etc.
5. A harsh, biting sensation in one particular place indicates the presence of a nick or gap. (Needs more honing, perhaps a general honing).
Use a lather or water on hone: The use of water or lather on a hone hastens sharpening. The use of lather is recommended to remove nicks or to recondition a very dull razor.

Stropping

Definition of stropping: Stropping is the process of smoothing the edge of a razor on a strop; stropping gives the razor a whetted edge.

Sixteen pointers on stropping a razor:

When to strop a razor. The best answer is to strop it whenever it needs it. Theoretically, it is stropped (1) before the first stroke, (2) about half way through a shave, (3) before shaving the second time over, and (4) before arching over the ears and shaving sides of neck.
The razor is stropped with the back of the blade leading. The direction of the blade in stropping is the opposite of that in honing.
The angle of the stroke is about the same as that for honing.
Make stropping strokes long, from six to ten inches.
Make the razor entirely flat on the strop. It is advisable to lift up just a little at the shoulder of the razor so as to make doubly sure that the point comes in full contact with the strop. The general tendency is to ride the base line near the heel and thereby slight the point.
Apply the blade firmly against the strop, with a pressure about twice equal to the weight of the razor. Too much pressure, especially if it is a full hollow ground type of razor, bends the blade so that the point does not receive full benefit from stropping.
Hold the strop rigid so that there is practically no give, to avoid cutting the strop and prevent too much pressure on the point.
Strop noiselessly. Do not pound the strop with the razor.
Never lift the razor off the strop during the process of stropping- contact is not broken.
Strop less after honing than at any other time, because the freshly honed edge is more sensitive and responds quickly to anything that comes into contact with it, and because the very edge is easily disturbed.
A freshly honed razor is stropped on a leather strop only. A canvas strop is too coarse for the razor in this sensitive condition.
After using the razor, strop on the canvas first if a canvas and leather combination strop is used.
The standard number of stropping strokes run from ten to twenty.
Do not make the strokes too fast or too slow. The tempo should be between these two extremes.
The strokes should be rhythmical, long, angular, of little pressure and graceful.
Hot water on razor. In cold weather it seems to add to the cutting ability of a razor to run hot water over the blade just before using it. It is a known fact that warm steel cuts more easily than cold steel. And then a cold razor is uncomfortable to the skin.

Sources: The Art and Science of Barbering by L. Sherman Trusty, M.A.,
The Standardized Textbook of Barbering published by Associated Master Barbers of America.